Gameboy Dmg-01 Backlight Mods

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Game Boy DMG Backlight Guide The original Game Boy DMG can have both a backlight and bi-verted mod done to it, for an excellent look. To summarize, it’s my opinion that the best way to play GB and GBC games on a handheld system is via the GBA SP AGS-101, or one of the original systems with a light mod. Get the best deals on Gameboy Backlight when you shop. Custom Pokemon Gameboy DMG With Backlight and Bivert. Original Gameboy DMG-01 Blue.

Tools that you will need:

  • Soldering iron & solder

  • Craft knife or another small blade

  • Soft cloth (microfibre or glasses cloth)

  • Small (PH00) Phillips head screwdriver

  • Flat Edge Tweezers

  • Flat Pry Tool

    Essentially I think the system aims to try and give the same amount of critical hit occurrences as before, with a tiny bias to giving more. Brown dust crit dmg rune 2. But in theory, if you had 99% crit chance (for example) each successive crit after the first auto-attack would slightly reduce your crit chance each time to try and balance this out.

  • Small Long Nose Pliers (optional)##insert-image##.

REMOVE THE REAR POLARISER AND REFLECTIVE LAYERS

Gameboy

Start by taking out the two small screws that secure the LCD. These are smaller than the other phillips-head screws used in the Game Boy. ##insert-image##.

Gently lift the LCD from the top using your pry tool, so as not to put stress onto the brown ribbon connection at the bottom.##insert-image##.

Gameboy Dmg-01 Backlight Mods 1

Using your tweezers to remove the soft white pads on the rear of the LCD, taking care with the one that may be stuck to the horizontal ribbon connection. These pads can be discarded.##insert-image##.

The rear polariser is made up of two layers, a reflective layer - and a polarising layer. These need to be removed at the same time as it can be difficult to remove the polariser on its own after the reflector. You can tell if you have both layers by looking at the LCD facing side of the reflector as you pull it up – it should appear darker than the PCB facing side. ##insert-image##

“Another way to know that you have both layers is that the reflector on its own will come up very easily - when you have both together there is a lot more resistance. Removing both together is still easier than one at a time as the polariser will tear on its own and you’ll be stuck removing a piece at a time, increasing the risk of damaging the LCD in the process” ##insert-image##.

“Warming the LCD slightly will soften the glue and make it easier to remove the two layers – even just holding the LCD against the palm of your hand so that it is not cold to the touch will help.”

From one corner of the LCD, using the edge of your blade, begin to separate the rear polariser and reflector from the LCD. ##insert-image##.

Make sure that you have a clean area, or that you mask the front of the LCD for this next part - you don’t want to scratch the front polarising layer!

Do not use the LCD frame as leverage to remove the film – any pressure on the corners of the LCD will cause it to crack – these are irreplaceable and will make the LCD-PCB unusable.##insert-image##.

Instead, hold the LCD face down on a soft cloth or workpad with your finger, in the middle of the LCD. This helps prevent putting any stress onto the ribbons, or the corners of the display. ##insert-image##.

Work around from the lifted corner, peeling each edge in turn and then through the middle.
This is the trickiest and most delicate part of the modification. Be patient and take your time.

“Don’t lift the LCD too far away from the PCB as you could cause damage to both the Horizontal and Vertical ribbon connections - this is where we use our long nose pliers, it means that we don’t need to get our hands in there, reducing the gap needed between the LCD and PCB. When peeling, only ever pull in a direction AWAY from the rest of the object. That way, WHEN you slip you will not damage anything.”

Once the rear layers have been removed, clean off any leftover adhesive by rubbing firmly with a deep pile microfiber cloth, or just your finger. Friction alone, is enough to remove all adhesive and fingerprints can be cleaned with a cloth afterwards.##insert-image##.

Some people recommend using solvents to loosen the glue - DO NOT JUST COVER EVERYTHING IN ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL.

PREPARE THE BACKLIGHT AND LCD FRAME

~If you are using a Game Boy Mods UK backlight it will already have a resistor built in and you can skip this step~

Fireworks CS5. Adobe application manager 9.0_all.dmg free.

If your backlight came with a separate resistor, trim one of the resistor’s legs so that only a small amount remains. ##insert-image##.

The idea is to create a 5v circuit, including the backlight and resistor. The resistor can be placed anywhere in the circuit - we solder it to the negative pad on the backlight itself. ##insert-image##.

Solder a wire to the other side of the resistor and remove the excess leg. ##insert-image##.

Now solder a second piece of wire to the positive solder pad. ##insert-image##.

Test fit the backlight in place – pay attention to other components and the point at which the LCD ribbon screws down to the PCB.

Gameboy Dmg 01 Backlight Kit

“You can remove part of the LCD frame to make everything fit a little easier. It reduces pressure from the backlight to the polariser and can help reduce the chances of Newton Rings appearing - we'll do a separate post about those..”

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